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By David Snellgrove

A unique account of the writer s trip throughout the distant Dolpo zone of the Himalayas, and the insights he recorded on Tibetan faith and culture.

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Additional resources for Himalayan Pilgrimage: A Study of Tibetan Religion by a Traveller Through Western Nepal

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T he night was h ot and oppressive w ith blood-sucking insects on the prowl. W e were now am idst cedars and pines, where we could use the resinous wood as flares and so save our paraffin. W e followed the left bank all the next day until we came to a bridge about two miles below Palang. T his provides a choice o f routes and so after conferring w ith the porters we decided on the m ore difficult b u t shorter route along the right bank. z5 T H E S T A R T OF O U R J O U R N E Y W e camped th at night on a delightful site just opposite Palang Village.

I had worked out a general plan before leaving London; thus Parwa Pasang Sherpa, who had accompanied m e to England after our last journey through eastern N epal in 1954, had now come by sea to Bombay, bringing our camping equipm ent, m ountain-clothes and other essential stores. H e had arrived in Kathm andu the dav before me, having left the bulk of this luggage in Banaras, where it could be collected at the outset o f our journey. O u r general plan was conditioned by the weather, for we would have to visit the districts of interest to us on the southern side o f the m ain Him alayan range between M arch and May 2 KATHMANDU before the monsoon gained force.

T hey sold us three fishes, which Pasang carried on a string sheltering them under our um brella from the fierce rays o f the sun. But it was quite im practicable to clamber over rocks in this way, so when we came to a pleasant little sandal-wood grove about a m ile further on, we sat down and cooked and ate the fish, w hich ful­ filled all our expectations and was the one meal of high quality 20 T H E A S C E N T OF T H E B H E R I th a t we enjoyed in seven m onths. Pasang thoughtfully reserved some for a curry in the evening.

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