Download Elusive Summits: Four expeditions in the Karakoram by Victor Saunders PDF

By Victor Saunders

Elusive Summits is the award successful first booklet by means of British mountaineer Victor Saunders, winner of the 1990 Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature. Documenting climbs within the Nineteen Eighties, at a time whilst the best mountains within the maximum levels were climbed by way of quite a few routes, accumulated like units of stamps and written approximately commonly by way of the world’s prime climbers, Saunders and his partners relished the exploration of the hundreds of thousands of peaks within the 6000 and 7000 metre variety. those a bit humbler, yet frequently extra aesthetically fulfilling and no much less trying out summits of the Karakoram and the Himalaya, have been ripe fruit for the devoted alpinists of the day. Saunders describes 4 light-weight expeditions to the Karakoram, starting with Uzum Brakk, or Conway’s Ogre, which he visited in 1980. with his mountain climbing partners, neither of whom he knew in any respect good, he came across the intense nature of Karakoram glaciers, and confronted as much as the violent climate that finally beat them again at the summit ridge once they had nominally accomplished their course. The trio interrupted their test on Uzum to accomplish a dramatic rescue of 2 badly injured jap climbers on within sight Latok IV, and this touch led in some way to Bojohaghur Duanasir, one of many optimum unclimbed mountains in Pakistan, which turned the thing of the North London mountain climbing Club’s attentions in 1982. right here, within the corporation of such associates and mountain climbing companions as Mick Fowler, the enjoyment of latest course discovering on an unclimbed 7000-metre top outweighed the perilous bivouacs and torture by means of lightening. 1983 provided an extraordinary probability to hitch Indian climbers at the entrance line of the Indian-Pakistan border clash around the Siachen Glacier. The excitement of fixing elaborate technical issues of Stephen Venables excessive above the firing line used to be dropped at an abrupt finish via a dropped rucksack which prompted an epic descent from slightly under the then unclimbed summit of Rimo. The fourth day trip used to be an try out at the wonderful height of Spantik. First glimpsed from Bojohaghur, this a mountain whose awe-inspiring Golden Pillar, hovering 4000 toes to the summit ridge, demanded realization. Saunders’ ascent in 1987 with Mick Fowler, and next pitch-by-grunt account, proved to be the most fascinating and tough ascents of the last decade via British alpinists. Saunders communicates the highs and lows of day trip lifestyles with get pleasure from, reliable humour, sincere trepidation and a prepared eye for the idiosyncratic between his partners. Elusive Summits is a superb social gathering of the sheer excitement that comes from the toughest point of alpine-style exploration within the Karakoram.

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