By Holly Hughes
As in prior variations, Best nutrition Writing 2009 will contain top-notch writers like Colman Andrews, Anthony Bourdain, Frank Bruni, invoice Buford, Madhur Jaffrey, Ruth Reichl, Raymond Sokolov, Calvin Trillin, Alice Waters, and plenty of others.
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The family drives twenty-five miles to the nearest town, Gettysburg, to attend church. Their next-door neighbor is a mile away. While visiting, I stayed at a bed and breakfast near Gettysburg. When I arrived late on a cold March night, I found a group of insurance adjusters from Arkansas wandering the lawn in camouflage, firing rifles into the air. qxd:Layout 1 9/3/09 9:50 AM Page 28 28 | best food writing 2009 Hurricane Katrina claims, and had come to South Dakota to hunt pheasants on land rented only by a nearby farmer—another bid for financial survival.
Qxd:Layout 1 9/3/09 9:50 AM Page 21 Medium-Size Me | 21 Pollan doesn’t profile many farmers like Lewis in The Omnivore’s Dilemma. Neither does Shapin, whose New Yorker essay, titled “Paradise Sold,” concludes morosely that the cottage-gardener image of organic agriculture is a sham concealing a madcap grab at organics’ fourteen-billion-dollar-per-year market. The finger-pointing is understandable. America’s relationship to its food is weirder and more contradictory than ever, with gourmet chefs on television and Cheetos going all-natural even as Americans get fatter, farms grow bigger, and agribusiness’s hold on government food policies tightens.
Too often, says Thurber, activists focus too much on tactics instead of strategy. He points to the Darfur campaign. Everybody saw the posters and agreed that the situation was tragic. qxd:Layout 1 9/3/09 9:50 AM Page 33 Go Slow, Foodies, It’s the Way to Win | 33 so it never achieved any real change. Without concrete follow-up, it will be the same for Waters’s inaugural meals. “The tactic here is having a dinner,” says Thurber. ” Chefs could take a page from their own playbook. In 1998, 27 high-profile chefs joined an environmental campaign called “Give Swordfish a Break” and agreed to take the endangered North Atlantic swordfish off their menus to reduce demand.